Just moved to Burbs from City - so coming back to it
Looking for Tips - Went with the Ego Mower - happy with that so far
But looking for like - do you use the Scotts Fall stuff? Stuff like that
Open to your years of experience!
Lawn Care
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- Otis Day
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I have never used the fall Scotts stuff. I use the hose end sprayers you can buy. I use that early spring, summer and late summer. I have used Scotts, the Lowes brand and other off brand names and all seem to work the same. I have also used some non chemical concoctions for fertilizer. The recipes are on line. They would include epsom salt, ammonia, beer, dish soap.
- UOK
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I really like my Ego trimmer for the easy re-spool alone. Battery is damn huge but it gets the job done.
I don't really have much of a care for my grass beyond filling in dead spots a couple times a year and I have zero discretion about what I throw on there. I'd be fine with a clover yard, honestly.
The yard/lawn care stuff can go as deep as you want it to go, but really as long as you keep it cut and the sidewalks relatively clear, nobody's really gonna care.
I don't really have much of a care for my grass beyond filling in dead spots a couple times a year and I have zero discretion about what I throw on there. I'd be fine with a clover yard, honestly.
The yard/lawn care stuff can go as deep as you want it to go, but really as long as you keep it cut and the sidewalks relatively clear, nobody's really gonna care.
- LacertineForest
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I've had an ego push mower for about 5 years, and it's been great. Battery lasts pretty long - usually I can get through my entire lawn (about 1/4 acre - 45 mins runtime), unless it's really tall/not 100% dry. Charging is fast, though - even if I can't finish it all at once, it only takes ~30 mins to get enough charge to finish the rest. Love how low-maintenance it's been.
As for the lawn itself, I don't do anything for it, anymore. I used to pay TruGreen to service it (wife was complaining about thistles in the lawn), but we decided to stop recently. We'll see how long that lasts. I'd rather not have to take care of one at all. One thing I like about a dry summer is that means I don't have to mow as much. This spring/early summer was nuts because we had so much rain.
As for the lawn itself, I don't do anything for it, anymore. I used to pay TruGreen to service it (wife was complaining about thistles in the lawn), but we decided to stop recently. We'll see how long that lasts. I'd rather not have to take care of one at all. One thing I like about a dry summer is that means I don't have to mow as much. This spring/early summer was nuts because we had so much rain.
- Rusty Trombagent
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Only one proper thing to do with grass, and that's tear that garbage out and plant a gorgeous and immensely beneficial native perennial meadow.
- wab
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Get a lawn guy like the rest of us suburbanites.
- LacertineForest
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I'd love to do this but I am REALLY lazy. Even planting some native plants in a section of the yard would be great for a lot of things, but at the end of the day, I hate yard work and always find something else to do instead.Rusty Trombagent wrote: ↑Fri Sep 20, 2024 9:12 am Only one proper thing to do with grass, and that's tear that garbage out and plant a gorgeous and immensely beneficial native perennial meadow.
- malk
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I'm just waiting for Plank to come in with some amazing lawncare app he's had on the back burner and this becoming the start of a beautiful relationship...
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- Grizzled
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As one with a Masters in Agronomy, just remember grass is a big parasite. Feed and weed, water, you're just creating more work as it grows quite happily. If you insist on growing it (not a native meadow or clover spread), see if the soils in your area are acidic (most probable) and apply lime. Adding compost in the fall for longer term benefits than chemical fertilizer. Keep your mower high in the summer (2-1/2 to 3 inches) so the grass grows thickly and outcompetes the weeds. Water 1" per week. Cut it short as you let it go dormant in the fall (but don't scalp it). Thatch in the spring. You might have to aerate every few years if your soil, like many suburban lawns, is compact.
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Appreciate it - and yep sadly well aware that it's a Weed at its heart. Backyard has to stay for the Pooch - but if you have ideas on the front for something more native?Grizzled wrote: ↑Sat Sep 21, 2024 3:16 pm As one with a Masters in Agronomy, just remember grass is a big parasite. Feed and weed, water, you're just creating more work as it grows quite happily. If you insist on growing it (not a native meadow or clover spread), see if the soils in your area are acidic (most probable) and apply lime. Adding compost in the fall for longer term benefits than chemical fertilizer. Keep your mower high in the summer (2-1/2 to 3 inches) so the grass grows thickly and outcompetes the weeds. Water 1" per week. Cut it short as you let it go dormant in the fall (but don't scalp it). Thatch in the spring. You might have to aerate every few years if your soil, like many suburban lawns, is compact.
- Grizzled
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Where do you live? Have any trees and shrubs in the front yard already? What would be your comfort level (and possibly neighbor and HOA approval) of something which is wilder, not traditional in looks? How much maintenance do you want to do, i.e. none to you love gardening.RichH55 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 3:55 pmAppreciate it - and yep sadly well aware that it's a Weed at its heart. Backyard has to stay for the Pooch - but if you have ideas on the front for something more native?Grizzled wrote: ↑Sat Sep 21, 2024 3:16 pm As one with a Masters in Agronomy, just remember grass is a big parasite. Feed and weed, water, you're just creating more work as it grows quite happily. If you insist on growing it (not a native meadow or clover spread), see if the soils in your area are acidic (most probable) and apply lime. Adding compost in the fall for longer term benefits than chemical fertilizer. Keep your mower high in the summer (2-1/2 to 3 inches) so the grass grows thickly and outcompetes the weeds. Water 1" per week. Cut it short as you let it go dormant in the fall (but don't scalp it). Thatch in the spring. You might have to aerate every few years if your soil, like many suburban lawns, is compact.
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Riverside - small patch in front - Should be able to do just about anythingGrizzled wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 4:35 pmWhere do you live? Have any trees and shrubs in the front yard already? What would be your comfort level (and possibly neighbor and HOA approval) of something which is wilder, not traditional in looks? How much maintenance do you want to do, i.e. none to you love gardening.
I would like very little maintenance ha
- Grizzled
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Had a thought. Have you ever gone to the Chicago Botanic Gardens in Highland Park or Lake Forest or somewhere north of the city? Lots of different plants and planting arrangements, think of it like window shopping before you buy.RichH55 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2024 8:34 amRiverside - small patch in front - Should be able to do just about anythingGrizzled wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 4:35 pm
Where do you live? Have any trees and shrubs in the front yard already? What would be your comfort level (and possibly neighbor and HOA approval) of something which is wilder, not traditional in looks? How much maintenance do you want to do, i.e. none to you love gardening.
I would like very little maintenance ha
- UOK
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What are your thoughts on clover? I kind of want to let it do its thing in my backyard.Grizzled wrote: ↑Sat Sep 21, 2024 3:16 pm As one with a Masters in Agronomy, just remember grass is a big parasite. Feed and weed, water, you're just creating more work as it grows quite happily. If you insist on growing it (not a native meadow or clover spread), see if the soils in your area are acidic (most probable) and apply lime. Adding compost in the fall for longer term benefits than chemical fertilizer. Keep your mower high in the summer (2-1/2 to 3 inches) so the grass grows thickly and outcompetes the weeds. Water 1" per week. Cut it short as you let it go dormant in the fall (but don't scalp it). Thatch in the spring. You might have to aerate every few years if your soil, like many suburban lawns, is compact.
- Grizzled
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Love it. Find a variety which grows in your area, go to a feed store or call the Ag Extension office. Clover needs a non-acidic soil, i.e. possible lime additions. Establishing it in a an existing grass lawn is the issue without using chemical herbicides to kill the grass (stay away from them). I'm not sure how much foot traffic they tolerate. Here's a link to grass alternatives:UOK wrote: ↑Tue Sep 24, 2024 7:54 amWhat are your thoughts on clover? I kind of want to let it do its thing in my backyard.Grizzled wrote: ↑Sat Sep 21, 2024 3:16 pm As one with a Masters in Agronomy, just remember grass is a big parasite. Feed and weed, water, you're just creating more work as it grows quite happily. If you insist on growing it (not a native meadow or clover spread), see if the soils in your area are acidic (most probable) and apply lime. Adding compost in the fall for longer term benefits than chemical fertilizer. Keep your mower high in the summer (2-1/2 to 3 inches) so the grass grows thickly and outcompetes the weeds. Water 1" per week. Cut it short as you let it go dormant in the fall (but don't scalp it). Thatch in the spring. You might have to aerate every few years if your soil, like many suburban lawns, is compact.
https://www.almanac.com/grass-alternati ... placements
Another option is putting in mulched beds with shrubs and flowers, essentially smothering the grass.
- Arkansasbear
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To me he best thing is to get a very good pre-emergent down. If I don't do that I'm fight stuff that thrives in cooler weather until it heats up.
Can you take a soil sample to U of I? They would be able to give you information if your soil is too acidic or basic and how to deal with that. I have to put down a ton of lime every year to balance out my soil's PH levels.
Can you take a soil sample to U of I? They would be able to give you information if your soil is too acidic or basic and how to deal with that. I have to put down a ton of lime every year to balance out my soil's PH levels.
- Grizzled
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U of I might offer that service.Some feed stores do also.Arkansasbear wrote: ↑Thu Sep 26, 2024 12:36 pm To me he best thing is to get a very good pre-emergent down. If I don't do that I'm fight stuff that thrives in cooler weather until it heats up.
Can you take a soil sample to U of I? They would be able to give you information if your soil is too acidic or basic and how to deal with that. I have to put down a ton of lime every year to balance out my soil's PH levels.
- Grizzled
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Hey Rich, I'm recommending this for a low maintenance front lawn:RichH55 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2024 8:34 amRiverside - small patch in front - Should be able to do just about anythingGrizzled wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 4:35 pm
Where do you live? Have any trees and shrubs in the front yard already? What would be your comfort level (and possibly neighbor and HOA approval) of something which is wilder, not traditional in looks? How much maintenance do you want to do, i.e. none to you love gardening.
I would like very little maintenance ha
1. Plant a dogwood tree. They typically grow upwards of 15 to 25 feet tall. The Kousa variety is good for shade but others do better in sun. Available with White, Pink, and Red flowers. Will grow upwards of 1 to 2 feet per year. Red berries after flowering, much loved by birds. Very nice fall color
2. If you have room, plant a Maple about 10 to 15 feet away from the Dogwood. Unless you want a really big tree, look for a Japanese Maple, they grow to 10 to 15 feet tall. Fast growing, great fall color.
3. Between the 2 trees, plant a couple of shrubs. Hollies are evergreen and there are varieties which reach from 3 to 25 feet in height (I'd look for the smaller ones like Japanese Holly, 3 to 4 feet high). Other shrub possibilities include Butterfly Bush, Viburnum, and Weigelia.
4. Fill in with perennial flowers (last for several years). Many many types. You can also throw in ground covers, they're typically no maintenance.
5. Put up landscape barrier edging around the whole thing. Put down landscape weed cloth between plants and put down mulch to an inch or so in depth.
- Atkins&Rebel
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You can spend quite a bit using a service.
I only do the following:
bought a small spreader and do 2-3 light applications of nitrogen fertilizer through the year and 1 application of grub control in the spring. (keeps skunks from digging up the yard looking for grubs)
You can usually buy what you need a landscape supply store.
Stay away from Pinterest.
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- Arkansasbear
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Be careful in picking a dogwood. Some require a good bit of shade to grow and if they have constant sunlight, they will die. Made that mistake a while back when I got the wrong one.Grizzled wrote: ↑Fri Sep 27, 2024 1:36 pmHey Rich, I'm recommending this for a low maintenance front lawn:
1. Plant a dogwood tree. They typically grow upwards of 15 to 25 feet tall. The Kousa variety is good for shade but others do better in sun. Available with White, Pink, and Red flowers. Will grow upwards of 1 to 2 feet per year. Red berries after flowering, much loved by birds. Very nice fall color
2. If you have room, plant a Maple about 10 to 15 feet away from the Dogwood. Unless you want a really big tree, look for a Japanese Maple, they grow to 10 to 15 feet tall. Fast growing, great fall color.
3. Between the 2 trees, plant a couple of shrubs. Hollies are evergreen and there are varieties which reach from 3 to 25 feet in height (I'd look for the smaller ones like Japanese Holly, 3 to 4 feet high). Other shrub possibilities include Butterfly Bush, Viburnum, and Weigelia.
4. Fill in with perennial flowers (last for several years). Many many types. You can also throw in ground covers, they're typically no maintenance.
5. Put up landscape barrier edging around the whole thing. Put down landscape weed cloth between plants and put down mulch to an inch or so in depth.
- Grizzled
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Dogwoods do well with morning sun and afternoon shade. Kousa Dogwood does well in heavier shade.Arkansasbear wrote: ↑Tue Oct 01, 2024 9:49 amBe careful in picking a dogwood. Some require a good bit of shade to grow and if they have constant sunlight, they will die. Made that mistake a while back when I got the wrong one.Grizzled wrote: ↑Fri Sep 27, 2024 1:36 pm
Hey Rich, I'm recommending this for a low maintenance front lawn:
1. Plant a dogwood tree. They typically grow upwards of 15 to 25 feet tall. The Kousa variety is good for shade but others do better in sun. Available with White, Pink, and Red flowers. Will grow upwards of 1 to 2 feet per year. Red berries after flowering, much loved by birds. Very nice fall color
2. If you have room, plant a Maple about 10 to 15 feet away from the Dogwood. Unless you want a really big tree, look for a Japanese Maple, they grow to 10 to 15 feet tall. Fast growing, great fall color.
3. Between the 2 trees, plant a couple of shrubs. Hollies are evergreen and there are varieties which reach from 3 to 25 feet in height (I'd look for the smaller ones like Japanese Holly, 3 to 4 feet high). Other shrub possibilities include Butterfly Bush, Viburnum, and Weigelia.
4. Fill in with perennial flowers (last for several years). Many many types. You can also throw in ground covers, they're typically no maintenance.
5. Put up landscape barrier edging around the whole thing. Put down landscape weed cloth between plants and put down mulch to an inch or so in depth.